My new home in the mountains

Here in the park, it is wonderful. Mountains, multicoloured forests, rainbow aqua lakes, wildlife, rivers and waterfalls. The array of contrasting, colours, textures and forms in the natural environment is quite breathtaking. Trees grow out of limestone covered florescent moss clumps midstream, while 300m wide water curtains fall then and suddenly become a 3m wide torrent. Lakes that seem as tropical lagoons supplanted to the edge of the Tibetan plateau dot the valleys, clear as crystal, underwater trees clearly visible through the sparkling, fluorescent depths. The irreplicable grandness of nature itself is perceived clearly when in this earthy paradise. Drama aside, it's quite amazing.
So far I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the conservation efforts undertaken by authorities at the park and also by the economic benefits that have clearly flowed to the Tibetan minority locals. The environment seems pristine and the locals happy with their more modern new homes, but a few glimpses of submerged rubbish, the profusion of mobile phone towers and the obvious transformation of the lifestyles of local people in the park shows that unresolved issues remain. Financial benefits aside- what of the effect on cultural wealth of the locals? Why is their no school nearby so that local Tibetans must send their children to the big city where they forget their language and adopt the ways of the Han mainstream? Maybe this is convenient for the state, but what of beauty in diversity?
My work may well focus more on developing areas of the park not yet open to many tourists, and on other valleys outside the park where potential for eco-tourism is great and local culture has not been degraded. In just the first few days we have met many local people, community leaders tourism workers and park staff. Its great to chat with them to get a sense of place, community and life conditions. We’ve watched two cultural shows- the 2nd a spectacular opera- a dazzling combination of colour, light, elaborate background and costumes, stories, dancing and song that conveyed a proud sense of the Tibetan people and their beliefs. In recent days we’ve met with 3 different village committees, visited the county seat to critique an exhibition, reviewed the visitor centre and visited 3 valleys earmarked for eco-tourism development (my job). I’ve met a lot of staff, played pleasantries with the directors, given out a few gifts and drunk plenty of toasts in the Chinese fashion.
Before I came here, my journey in China began in a conference centre in the suburbs of sprawling Beijing. Everywhere it seemed there were massive traffic clogged roads, high rises buildings and smog. Making the journey by subway and buses to the city centre, Tiananmen square, Jiangshan park, Wangfujing shopping district and the summer palace was more than worth it for the world-matching monuments, and provided that sense of place and orientation that I missed out in the suburbs. The summer palace and forbidden city was a reminder of imperial glory, while flashy wangfujing shopping street was a demonstration of China new-found wealth and neon-lights capitalism. At the summer palace, every info sign reminded visitors how each building was burnt down by the Anglo-French forces in 1860, a sign of the ‘grievance’ nationalism promoted by various Chinese leaders (especially Mao), mainly for political purposes. Our accom building was close to the Olympic site though, just a few bus stops up the ring road so I snuck up there one day in the lunch break between our training sessions and wandered around the imposing structures- the ‘birds nest’ with its webbed-spokes like appearance, the ‘ice cube’ spectacularly lit up at night and gymnastics dome. Many Chinese tourists getting their belated dose of Olympic fervour. Also sampled the nightlife scene in Beijing. Didnt know what to expect in the capital of communist china where 'liberty' is hardly the motto of the town. In Nanluguoxiang district met up with other AYADs and expats at a rooftop bar between two ancient Drum and Bell towers, then took a walk down the bar district where tradtional hutong architecture met backpacker nighlife haunt in a east-west juxtaposition. Cool atmosphere. Later, in the expat realm of sanlitou, the character-less neon lights, dancing girls and commerical feel was hardly charming. It left me heading home wondering if it was the usual life for most diplomats in China (being right in the embassy zone), to often spend an average half-weeks wages of a local worker on each drink in these seedy bars.
Chengdu, my next stop, was another energetic city, famous for spicy food (and women- known as ‘la meizi’- spice girls), tea-drinking culture, and more recently as the capital of the province hit by the devastating may earthquake. Situated in the centre of a large natural basin, mountains in the distance on all sides, it is the agricultural and industrial centre of Western China with a long and proud history to rival even that of the capital Beijing. Unfortunately, the basin geography also makes for cloudy, humid weather (only 28% of days with any sunshine) and while I was visiting there was no exception. There for 4-days, I had a lot of shopping to do and time for some sightseeing too. This time, my hotel was right in the centre of town, all I need to do was look out my window to see the milling crowds of thousands of fashionable youngsters strolling through the ‘chun xi lu’ shopping mall, fast food, jewellery and expensive clothing stores all around. OK, so phaps on my volunteers budget this was not the place for me to shop!. First, after some extensive negotiation, I bought a bicycle for 800 CNY, got extra fitted, seat raised, boxed (for flight) and starting happily pedalling my way through around and across the streets and suburbs of Chengdu. Being without a decent map, it was a bit hit and miss at times but getting lost is of course half the fun and this is how I got to know the town. Visiting parks and temples, a university, department stores, old alleys and the city square with its big Mao-statue, eventually found a shoe store that had my size way out in the suburbs at a busy shopping district where the ‘real’ locals shopped and prices where much cheaper. Its cold up at the park, so I collected lots of warm gear and piled them on my bike rack and set off again. Wenshu temple was a highlight of Chengdu, majestic and serene profound messages on the walls and beautiful architecture to admire, I found my first few moments of real peace since arriving in China while sitting in a garden-lake pagoda while the soaking rain kept crowds away.
Taking the 40-min flight up to Jiuzhai-Huanglong airport, I managed to smuggle my bicycle aboard along with piles of luggage without paying fees, and was presented with towering peaks of jagged, bare brown stone, backed by endless waves of mountains and ridges disappearing off into the distance. I had reached the edge of the roof of the world, the path to the Tibetan plateau and landed above 3000m in a yak-farmed brown valley rimmed by peaks. Since then, the mountains have been the maiden forever at my side, and the local Tibetan people with their warmth are the mystery into which I am slowing delving. The air is clean and crisp and the water clear. Yes, this is a paradise.
See you soon!
:)