The title of this post 'searching for progressive China' has been one of the themes of the time i've spent in this country. Some might say i am foolish, unrealistic, trying to search for progressive China while living in a self-enclosed community in one of the most isolated pockets of mountainous Sichuan province. But i feel bound to take up this search. Because mine own destiny in this country depends on the door being open to this avenue of hope. Being the idealist son of 60's generation parents, i could hardly tolerate living amongst an atmosphere of pervasive conservatism and opression, and so would be forced to leave. In the place where i live, my western colleagues use the excuse 'you can't change Chinese culture' as a reason to follow the local political habits. Then, by asserting their authority and befriending the high players, they have crafted their own patch of political turf in the office hierarchy . But these games don't appeal to me. Anywhere in the world, simply saying that one must follow the local way is no excuse for unscrupulousness.
Chinese culture is not a fixed object. It changes and transforms along with everything else in this world. The only duty we can truly have in this world is to push with our weight of influence, that transformative flow towards the direction that we most deeply know and feel is the direction of righteousness. So i, in my limited capacities, will push for progress here even though it might seem to be against the flow. How can one remain an honest and independent broker if we are too close to the powerplayers ans decision-makers? In that way we could end up being used as a source of foreign 'expert' validation for greedy or misguided tourism development planned from the top without deep consideration or consultation.
Here in Jiuzhaigou, what the leaders says, goes. When a prefectural governor visits and makes a passing comment that the perfectly serviceable wooden walking trails are looking a bit old- 40kms of boardwalk are torn up the next day. Meanwhile, the conservation goals of ecotourism get little funding due to an alomst complete lack of understanding and enthusiasm. After all, how is ecotourism going to help their political goals?
Nationalism:
In my discourse with Chinese people in general, i regularly have come across a deep and irrational sense of nationalism, which is apparently government encouraged (especially since tiananmen 20 years ago) for purposes of national unity and security for their regime. This is a standard practice used by those in power across the world since time immemorial. And it is especially convenient to make foreigners the enemy in Tibetan areas where national loyalties are more questionable and westerners, with the popularity of the Tibetan cause, are seen as a source of separatism. So, this nationalism is often accompanied by suspicion of me as a foreigner. When i tried to travel to the prefecture capital a couple of months ago, i was treated like a criminal and accused of being a reporter by a bunch of policeman staring at me with hostile eyes, ears simply dead to my friendly protestations.
Others nationalistically like to put me in my place as someone who, as an outsider, couldn't possibly understand Chinese people and history. This maybe true to some extent, but the way it is used is to excuse a kind of xenophobia that has no basis in logic at all. But i refuse to live in fear. And as a person who is not against China, or Chinese people, but someone who scrupulously guards his objectivity, i refuse to be silenced. I think, in the end, this is the most worthwhile path to take.
Some of these factors point to a basic contradiction in China's outlook. While they are paranoid of foreigners and view large parts of Western China as no-go zones for any foreign nationals, they also are supposed to be opening up to the world and becoming a responsible International Actor.
It is fair to say though, that if i was based in China, in an area where the governmental shadow is not cast so heavily, i would likely have come out with a different perspective. The only way to find out, i guess, is to go and live in the more developed and more open Eastern cities (unfortunately these cities are amongst the smog too!)- so i'll closely consider taking an English teaching job in one of those cities.
Politics & Hope:
Of course the hope for a better world is definitely there, somewhere, in the hearts and minds of the Chinese people, but against a long tradition of conservatism, it often remains deep under the surface. What, with a proud history of 000s of years and a tradition of authoritarianism, the temptation to look back at what has come before and mentally project that as an unchanging pattern into our anticipation for the future is always strong, despite the revolutionary protestations of a new system and new regime.
In the youth of the cities that i have met, particularly the women and the educated, but also the men, i sense a more open attitude.
Even in the 2nd ranked leader, Premier Wen Jiabao, there is a spark in the eye and a human touch that has garnered him the affectionate name from his people 'grandfather Wen'. He even recently quoted Franklin D.Rosovelt when discussing the economic crisis by stating; "We have nothing to fear but fear itself".
Though it seems unfortunately that the same cannot be said for the no.1 cadre, President Hu Jintao. He is known as the man who ordered troops into Tibet after the Tiananmen square protest in 1989. Soon after taking this decision he was elevated to the Central Committee of the ruling party. His stiffness at overseas engagements is painfully obvious as a sign of his conservatism.
Hu Jintao quotes:
"China will continue to build up democracy with it's own characteristics and improve it's people's human rights based on the actual situation and the aspiration of the people"
"We have pursued profound change without ever giving up China's unique brand of socialism, and so have been able to bring about great reforms,”
“featuring a more developed economy, improved democracy, advanced science and education ... and higher living standards for the entire 1.3 billion people.”
Even the relatively conservative US think-tank Centre for American Progress agrees that:
"the Chinese government is imposing more accountability on officials and providing more societal input into policy decisions".
"By meeting the legitimate demands of its citizens for freedom and openness, China's leaders can help their country grow into a modern, prosperous and confident nation.”
And it is clear to me that China's system, with it's active governance style, rejection of imperialism and emphasis on human outcomes, is a force whose influence could potentially help to cure some of the ills of the capitalist-ruled western democracies. But a lack of criticism from the far-right in the US is not necessarily a good sign. Oppression of the left and oppression of the right are remarkably similar, as pointed out by great authors such as Noam Chomsky in his books on the Cold War. Meanwhile, a mutually-power preserving alliance of the capitalist establishment and a Chinese government elite, fearful of US military power, is not out of the question.
I hope all these various ideas can give some new ideas and make these issues a little clearer to you. Its hardly a simple matter but time will tell. I suppose we can just try to maintain a human approach while preserving our own openness to China, refusing to become a victim of the xenophobia of which we accuse others.
Below i add a couple of posts i made recently to my facebook group 'Anti-Imperialista':
Post 1:
Here in China recently passed the 20th anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre, as it is known. Hushed-up and unknown, the date of June 4 means little in China, despite the fact that on this date in 1989 an event took place which shook their nations history. The government claims that the movement was a western-inspired bourgeois-capitalist uprising, but historic records indicate that it was a student movement which was asking for government accountability and gradually gaining support from mainstream Chinese society, threatening those in power. A friend of mine who was there at the time, reports how the song of choice among the crowds was the 'Internationale' the anthem of the global socialist movement. As it was, cold steel and a campaign of fear won the day. The government has much to answer for. They now claim legitimacy based on their ability to deliver improved livelihood to their people, which has much merit, but the time for political freedom must come too. We shall see.
Post 2:
Re. Tiananmen Square, Living here in an isolated community in the mountains of Western China, the idea of political freedom seems a very distant concept. Subtly trying to discuss this event with some close colleagues, the subject was quickly met with an awkwardness, likely born out of a combination of fear and misinformation. Ironically, it is the Tibetan leaders in this autonomous prefecture, who in the name of Socialism, now oppress their own people. General submissiveness to authority is relied upon to perpetuate rule as much as it was in the days of the Dalai Lama's rule over this region. Change is slow and must come from without. Please come and visit this beautiful place, Jiuzhaigou, and see for yourself, chat to the people, helping themselves to imagine what is possible.
Hope all is well back home!
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Confucian Analects
Having recently finished reading the Confucian classic text 'The Analects', i want to share some of the observations i have made with you.
I have often heard the term 'Confucian Hierarchy' used in descriptions of Asian culture. but after reading The Analects i can say that the implication that Confucius promoted strict social hierarchy in the way we understand it today is misleading. While he often refers to loyalty to one's superiors as a duty, this is in the spirit of service and not in the spirit of submissiveness or tyranny of the powerful. For example, he often says that if you don't agree with the actions of the superior whom you serve, it is your duty to speak out against them, or you can be held responsible for the results of their improper action. And Confucius himself often moved around between states in service of their rulers according to how well the rules of propriety were being upheld in any place. While the text itself is sometimes paradoxical and self-contradictory, and Confucius himself a flawed man in many ways (e.g. he asks for forgiveness after consorting with a wicked concubine of one of the rulers he served), there's lots of good advice on how to balance various pressures in life to find a 'middle-way'. The text is assertive of facts but not superstitious or theological (the closest it gets is mentioning 'heavens will' and 'the way'). This echoes a kind of message heard from well-meaning thinkers through history- there is no (vengeful, all powerful) god, but there is good. Regular mentions of gentlemanliness and civility remind me of old English chivalry and European aristocratic values. Maybe those boastful scholars from the Confucian temple in Beijing that i mentioned in an early post were not so wrong after all......
Here are some quotes from The Analects that, to me, seem fundamental:
Book 1, paragraph 1: "That friends should come to one from afar, is this not after all delightful?"- useful for encouraging hospitality to foreigners....
"To remain unsoured even though one's merits are unrecognised by others, is that not afterall what is expected of a gentleman?"
para 3: "clever talk and a pretentious manner are seldom found in the good"
para 10: "our master (Confucius) gets things done by being cordial, frank, courteous, temperate, deferential"
para 15: "poor, yet delighting in the way, rich, yet a student of ritual"
Book 2: "let there be no evil in your thoughts"
"Govern the people by moral force, keep order among them by ritual and they will keep their self-respect and come to you of their own accord"
"A gentleman does not preach what he practices until he has practiced what he preaches"
"A Gentleman can see a question from all sides without bias. The small man is biased and can see a question from only one side."
"He who learns but does not think is lost. He who thinks but does not learn is in great danger."
He often talks about truth (reliability) and loyalty, service, courage and learning from the ancients (e.g. Book of Songs)
It is demanded that authorities should not abuse labour (only assign tasks that people are capable of) and rulers should be affectionate towards their subjects
Also rating a mention is the need to admit mistakes- take responsibility as we might say- and by following these methods we can 'build up moral force' which gives us power and persuasiveness.
Many of these practical principles espoused by Confucius maintain their relevance into modern times- and offer an seem to contain an earthy wisdom that is a welcome relief from the polarizing religious and ideological dogmas that still persist into the 21st century.
More difficult for modern societies to accept would be the misogynist elements (3 submissions to father, husband and son) of Confucius teaching- which, as essential cultural habits of his time and place- were in all probably-hood- simply adopted for popularity amongst stability-adoring Chinese kings.
Simultaneous to my perusing of the teaching of Confucius, my health has been struggling to adapt to life at 2000m in the cold, high mountains of northern Sichuan. Perhaps such an ancient remedy as those used in Confucius times could warm my chilled bones, but none such traditional healers are to be found in this tourist town ('It's a trick'- i've been told by modernity-loving communist party members), though many rare herbs are known to litter the slopes.
Fortunately my knowing father sent some modern-style supplements to give my immunity a boost, and my newly formed habit of playing regular B'ball has a way of improving circulation, keeping me warm and healthy.- 'Hen li hai'- colleagues say to describe my b'ball game.
Unfortunately the cold also makes one's more susceptible to injuries, and so it was that in the heat of play one afternoon the sharp jabbing of the ball into my little finger left it poking out at an awkward angle, dislocated for all to see. With a growl, I popped it back in and kept playing, but this injury was to come back to haunt me...
Other events happening around this time were the visit of AYAD Peter (Wang Xingzui's assistant) from Beijing, with whom i had some interesting cross-cultural discussions (he seemed intent on playing teacher), and we also discussed the future possibilities of AYAD-JZG co-operation.
2009 is also the China year of ecotourism- as launched with some fanfare by a posse of party leaders (though not highest level) at a ceremony in Hainan recently. The words in their speeches that day inspired some hope- e.g. acknowledging the complementarity of ecotourism with China's future development goals and opening up policies. However, this apparent enthusiasm was not later backed up by actual policies or initiatives, as i fruitlessly waited all year for any new policy announcements on the pages of the relevant government websites related to tourism and environment. The hype was all huff and puff it seemed- perhaps motivated in large part by the narrow interests of developers who (in cahoots with government officials) have been making millions at the expense of the environment while property prices skyrocketed during the past decade in Hainan.
We'll these musings are over for now, an old time recalled and recorded to some completion, I hope it is of some relevance and interest to you. Best of health and happiness as always
Callum
I have often heard the term 'Confucian Hierarchy' used in descriptions of Asian culture. but after reading The Analects i can say that the implication that Confucius promoted strict social hierarchy in the way we understand it today is misleading. While he often refers to loyalty to one's superiors as a duty, this is in the spirit of service and not in the spirit of submissiveness or tyranny of the powerful. For example, he often says that if you don't agree with the actions of the superior whom you serve, it is your duty to speak out against them, or you can be held responsible for the results of their improper action. And Confucius himself often moved around between states in service of their rulers according to how well the rules of propriety were being upheld in any place. While the text itself is sometimes paradoxical and self-contradictory, and Confucius himself a flawed man in many ways (e.g. he asks for forgiveness after consorting with a wicked concubine of one of the rulers he served), there's lots of good advice on how to balance various pressures in life to find a 'middle-way'. The text is assertive of facts but not superstitious or theological (the closest it gets is mentioning 'heavens will' and 'the way'). This echoes a kind of message heard from well-meaning thinkers through history- there is no (vengeful, all powerful) god, but there is good. Regular mentions of gentlemanliness and civility remind me of old English chivalry and European aristocratic values. Maybe those boastful scholars from the Confucian temple in Beijing that i mentioned in an early post were not so wrong after all......
Here are some quotes from The Analects that, to me, seem fundamental:
Book 1, paragraph 1: "That friends should come to one from afar, is this not after all delightful?"- useful for encouraging hospitality to foreigners....
"To remain unsoured even though one's merits are unrecognised by others, is that not afterall what is expected of a gentleman?"
para 3: "clever talk and a pretentious manner are seldom found in the good"
para 10: "our master (Confucius) gets things done by being cordial, frank, courteous, temperate, deferential"
para 15: "poor, yet delighting in the way, rich, yet a student of ritual"
Book 2: "let there be no evil in your thoughts"
"Govern the people by moral force, keep order among them by ritual and they will keep their self-respect and come to you of their own accord"
"A gentleman does not preach what he practices until he has practiced what he preaches"
"A Gentleman can see a question from all sides without bias. The small man is biased and can see a question from only one side."
"He who learns but does not think is lost. He who thinks but does not learn is in great danger."
He often talks about truth (reliability) and loyalty, service, courage and learning from the ancients (e.g. Book of Songs)
It is demanded that authorities should not abuse labour (only assign tasks that people are capable of) and rulers should be affectionate towards their subjects
Also rating a mention is the need to admit mistakes- take responsibility as we might say- and by following these methods we can 'build up moral force' which gives us power and persuasiveness.
Many of these practical principles espoused by Confucius maintain their relevance into modern times- and offer an seem to contain an earthy wisdom that is a welcome relief from the polarizing religious and ideological dogmas that still persist into the 21st century.
More difficult for modern societies to accept would be the misogynist elements (3 submissions to father, husband and son) of Confucius teaching- which, as essential cultural habits of his time and place- were in all probably-hood- simply adopted for popularity amongst stability-adoring Chinese kings.
Simultaneous to my perusing of the teaching of Confucius, my health has been struggling to adapt to life at 2000m in the cold, high mountains of northern Sichuan. Perhaps such an ancient remedy as those used in Confucius times could warm my chilled bones, but none such traditional healers are to be found in this tourist town ('It's a trick'- i've been told by modernity-loving communist party members), though many rare herbs are known to litter the slopes.
Fortunately my knowing father sent some modern-style supplements to give my immunity a boost, and my newly formed habit of playing regular B'ball has a way of improving circulation, keeping me warm and healthy.- 'Hen li hai'- colleagues say to describe my b'ball game.
Unfortunately the cold also makes one's more susceptible to injuries, and so it was that in the heat of play one afternoon the sharp jabbing of the ball into my little finger left it poking out at an awkward angle, dislocated for all to see. With a growl, I popped it back in and kept playing, but this injury was to come back to haunt me...
Other events happening around this time were the visit of AYAD Peter (Wang Xingzui's assistant) from Beijing, with whom i had some interesting cross-cultural discussions (he seemed intent on playing teacher), and we also discussed the future possibilities of AYAD-JZG co-operation.
2009 is also the China year of ecotourism- as launched with some fanfare by a posse of party leaders (though not highest level) at a ceremony in Hainan recently. The words in their speeches that day inspired some hope- e.g. acknowledging the complementarity of ecotourism with China's future development goals and opening up policies. However, this apparent enthusiasm was not later backed up by actual policies or initiatives, as i fruitlessly waited all year for any new policy announcements on the pages of the relevant government websites related to tourism and environment. The hype was all huff and puff it seemed- perhaps motivated in large part by the narrow interests of developers who (in cahoots with government officials) have been making millions at the expense of the environment while property prices skyrocketed during the past decade in Hainan.
We'll these musings are over for now, an old time recalled and recorded to some completion, I hope it is of some relevance and interest to you. Best of health and happiness as always
Callum
shifty buses & Chongqing hills
What i didn't have a chance to describe last time was the memorable experience of New Year's eve 2009 in the city of Xi'an. After spending the day of 31st dec riding a miniature rented bicycle around town to the Eight immortals temple, Big & Small Goose pagoda and back to city centre, my knees bumping against the handlebars the whole way, i peddled the last few kms with a flat tyre before settling back for a few moments rest at the hostel, pondering how to spend the evening. I might have passed the evening in a nonedescript way as most Chinese do, except for the lucky chance that the day before, in the Muslim street market of Xi'an, i had bizarrely bumped into a English photographer from Beijing who i had met and befriended on a bus from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou about a month earlier. I don't know so many Westerners in China, and to bump into one of them randomly like this in a street of a huge city that is neither of our home, the odd's seem long indeed. Anyway, as i had no other expat contacts in Xi'an, i took this as a sign that i should hang out with this guy and his GF for NYE. About 10pm i headed out, on the way hooking up with a couple of other revellers departing the hostel and taxied down to the Bell Tower in the centre of town- which i'd heard would be letting out a mighty tolling as the calendar ticked over to 2009- and was dramatically lit up under floodlights for the night. From there i explored some bars on a popular drinking street Gu Xiang, busy bars, live music, and overpriced drinks. After meeting up with my photographer friend and checking out a couple of these bars- we headed back to the a busy underground hostel bar with live music that was packed and crankin, downed a few shots and a LIIT or two, b4 making a run for it back to the bell tower in time for 12 o'clock. As it turned out, there was no tolling of the bell, but instead crowds of hundreds of young Chinese had gathered near the tower to release red lanterns into the sky and let off fireworks- as a way of bringing good luck for the new year, the atmosphere was excited (though not drunken as most NYE crowds i've known!) and people helped each other to light and launch their symbolic wishes. So as the clock chimed midnight, and the burst of fireworks and screams of revellers gave away that the new year had arrived, we got into the spirit and joined the throngs to fire-up and launch a lantern into the sky, making a wish while watching it sail up into the stratosphere.
Later on back i the bar, a few drinks and games of pool later, having chatted to various expats and locals alike, met up with some cool crowds and coupled up with a charming girl named Chalne, who, as it turned out, would become my travelling companion for the next week.
The following day i managed to awake in the afternoon in time to climb up on top of the city walls for a overview of the busy streets, historic and modern architecture, and crowds of tall apartment buildings surrounding. Watching the sunset over the city moat with my friend Chalne, as citizens exercised in parks below, the sky glowed red and the lights of the towers began to shine, it was a peaceful moment and a refreshing start to the new year, it even felt like almost anything was possible......
My goodbye gift from Xi'an, while on the bus on my way back to the hotel after visiting the terracotta warriors, was the theft of my wallet, niftily picked from my pocket by a young girl who blocked my passage as i pushed to get off the public bus. So all the coinage i had saved by mastering the public bus system (reading those routes maps in Chinese so i can get on the right bus was always a fun challenge...) to get around instead of taking taxis was instantly lost....She was really deft, and though it seemed strange that i had to push so hard to get through, i noticed no feeling as she reached around to the far pocket of my trousers and yanked my wallet from my all too shallow pockets. As i turned back after getting off the bus, the same girl who blocked my way, was smiling at me slyly from inside the bus, and it was only moments later that i discovered. I think she had spotted me as a potential target near the combined train/bus station (these busy transit areas are places to stay very alert- lots of hawkers and prowlers hanging out for a chance to grab a left-behind bag or dropped valuable or phaps worse). So a warning for travelers to Xi'an- this is one of the main tourist towns of China, and as many locals also warned, it supports a population of thieves and shikesters, don't be afraid, just be on your toes when in tourist areas.
From Xi'an, the only way to my next destination, Chongqing was by overnight bus (as the train was full) to Chengdu, from where i could switch in the morning to get to Chongqing. It turned out to be quite an unpleasant trip, taking 11 hours instead of 9 as promised, and sitting in the front row of seats meant that we were constantly swallowing the 2nd hand smoke of the addicted fools who sat beside the driver in order to light up. I told off a couple of them as i'm sure there's a law against smoking in these buses, but as they kept returning to light up, and there was no reference to no smoking on the ticket or bus itself, and the driver himself was often lighting up, i had to give up, voicing my protests instead through choking coughs. Not much sleep that night.....
In Chengdu i joined the throngs at the train station to line up to buy tickets to Chongqing (the train less than half the price of the bus...only $10aud for a 4.5 hour journey). During the couple hour wait for our train, sitting in an empty restaurant top floor, Chalne and i ranged in a sleep-dazed conversation from topics existential to the mundane, until i eventually started describing to her the principles of impermanence as conveyed through Buddhism. Then after this conservation, on the train, by chance we were seated beside a Buddhist monk, the only monk on the long and packed train. So we began chatting to the gentle practitioner on various topics including life as a monk, Tibetan culture, different schools of Buddhism, temples to visit and types of meditation. It was interesting to see that he couldn't resist buying several of each of the toys put on sale in showman-like fashion to all passengers in the carriage by the railway staff. Presumably he has plenty of cash (monks are these days given a salary by the government), quite a far cry for example from the Jain Sadhus i met in India and wrote about in my other blog..... Anyway he couldn't resist gifting us a couple of toothbrushes he bought, and the salesman (plus the whole carriage!) had a good laugh at me when i gave the toothbrush a demo run there and then ('you shouldn't do it without toothpaste!' the salesmen cried). Following this journey, discussions of Buddhism, yoga and meditation techniques became one of the main themes of mine and Chalne's relationship. Amongst these discussions, we both agreed on the transient nature of things, and we instead tried to enjoy the moment, undisturbed by the looks of disapproval as we calmed ourselves through concentration on the breath as we rode the busy public bus.
Chongqing was more than i expected. Far from the dull, industrial metropolis i had heard about, to me, it's charm was palatable and its atmosphere captivating. The natural geography of hilly streets and high density housing, commercial districts amongst concrete and pylons that lifted the city's arteries one on top of the other, plus stone-lined alleyways, street markets and old-style architecture hidden amongst the tall buildings, on a narrow peninsula flanked by 2 large rivers, it really took on the appearance of a huge multi-level maze, but one where the pleasure, not the puzzle, was in getting lost.
The center of town and main commerical district, Jiefangbei, had wide vehicle-free promenades lined with neon-lit fashion, electronics, western take way outlets and traditional Chongqing hotpot restaurants. With the local pride for spice, Chongqing hotpot is known to be even spicer than it's cousin the Sichuan hotpot, even with Sichuan's formidable reputation for fire (the Chinese saying in relation to regional cuisines goes 'Sichuan is for spicy hot'), and Chalne and i (with some trepidation) decided this was the chance to take on the spice challenge, and we climbed to the rooftop restaurant overlooking the mall. With these hotpots, you cook the food yourself in a big pot of spiced broth which sits in the centre of the table, and my first tentative taste of the soup was a warning, as a tiny drip on my little finger burned my toungue immeadiately upon contact. The hundreds of tiny red chillis in the soup broth really got me sweating and i had to gag to stop choking from the heat, while tears poured out of my eyes, but i kept eating. Quite tasty in fact. I survived the evening, but it wasn't until after i went to sleep the following night that i was hit by an explosive case of amoebic dysentry that lasted a good couple of days (requiring drastic pharmaceutical dosing to survive the 10 hour bus back from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou the following day). Not sure if it was the hotpot or the alleyway 50c noodles i ate the following night (amongst a genial crowd of local workers- the real folk) that finally did it to me but i can say im sure the fire-spice dinner had its affect.
Otherwise in Chongqing, i spent my time (oft with companion) wandering the streets, riding cable cars and climbing hills for overviews of the rivers, skyscrapers and city lights. One afternoon i took the bus to Ciqikou ancient town, a charming place overlooking the Jinjiang river of roughstone alleyways, wooden shuttered windows and white-washed, brown-lined narrow multistorey homes, that seems hardly to have changed in 500 years. Nowadays also a tourist enclave for food and handmade souvenirs, while wandering alleys here and snapping plenty pics, i chatted to Pakistani chefs plying their trade to interested local tourists and visited a serene Buddhist pagoda situated over and above the tourist shopping mayhem. Meeting friendly people on the bus there- who made sure i didn't get lost (even frantically waving directions out the window of the bus after i'd got off!), and practising Chinese with then was half the fun of the trip.
Chongqing is also famous as one of the last strongholds of the Kuomintang in their battle with the communists. They made it their capital after the fall of the Qing dynasty and many bloody battles were fought in this area, with communist memorials in the hills outside the city from where the red army based themselves and eventually overcame the nationalists in the bitter struggle, tales of siege and torture aside (these civil-war battles are now depicted daily on state television in a way that outspoken local Chinese academics recently described as propaganda and brainwashing for their one-sided promotion of the Communists)
The people in Chongqing also seemed remarkably friendly (apart from one old attendant lady in a temple who seemed to get sadistic pleasure from yelling at a foreigner with camera...), people didn't seem to stare, look at me strangely or try to rip me off, they were polite and helpful.... Quite civilized it seemed. A possible reason being coz there are much less foreigners here than in Chengdu so perhaps ppl. more inclined to show their best face when one comes along......;)
Maybe also i was looked upon more kindly too for being accompanied by a charming young Chinese girl like Chalne...
HEY- I forgot to mention in my last post- happy birthday to my dearest mother- on 19th Jan turned 50+ years young!
More dedications to my dear parents later.... this Chinese filial piety thing is infectious! Confucius has had a bit to say about that in his classic 'The Analects'- which ive recently read- rest assured i'll offer some interpretations of his teachings in the next post.....
Bye for now
cheers
callum
Later on back i the bar, a few drinks and games of pool later, having chatted to various expats and locals alike, met up with some cool crowds and coupled up with a charming girl named Chalne, who, as it turned out, would become my travelling companion for the next week.
The following day i managed to awake in the afternoon in time to climb up on top of the city walls for a overview of the busy streets, historic and modern architecture, and crowds of tall apartment buildings surrounding. Watching the sunset over the city moat with my friend Chalne, as citizens exercised in parks below, the sky glowed red and the lights of the towers began to shine, it was a peaceful moment and a refreshing start to the new year, it even felt like almost anything was possible......
My goodbye gift from Xi'an, while on the bus on my way back to the hotel after visiting the terracotta warriors, was the theft of my wallet, niftily picked from my pocket by a young girl who blocked my passage as i pushed to get off the public bus. So all the coinage i had saved by mastering the public bus system (reading those routes maps in Chinese so i can get on the right bus was always a fun challenge...) to get around instead of taking taxis was instantly lost....She was really deft, and though it seemed strange that i had to push so hard to get through, i noticed no feeling as she reached around to the far pocket of my trousers and yanked my wallet from my all too shallow pockets. As i turned back after getting off the bus, the same girl who blocked my way, was smiling at me slyly from inside the bus, and it was only moments later that i discovered. I think she had spotted me as a potential target near the combined train/bus station (these busy transit areas are places to stay very alert- lots of hawkers and prowlers hanging out for a chance to grab a left-behind bag or dropped valuable or phaps worse). So a warning for travelers to Xi'an- this is one of the main tourist towns of China, and as many locals also warned, it supports a population of thieves and shikesters, don't be afraid, just be on your toes when in tourist areas.
From Xi'an, the only way to my next destination, Chongqing was by overnight bus (as the train was full) to Chengdu, from where i could switch in the morning to get to Chongqing. It turned out to be quite an unpleasant trip, taking 11 hours instead of 9 as promised, and sitting in the front row of seats meant that we were constantly swallowing the 2nd hand smoke of the addicted fools who sat beside the driver in order to light up. I told off a couple of them as i'm sure there's a law against smoking in these buses, but as they kept returning to light up, and there was no reference to no smoking on the ticket or bus itself, and the driver himself was often lighting up, i had to give up, voicing my protests instead through choking coughs. Not much sleep that night.....
In Chengdu i joined the throngs at the train station to line up to buy tickets to Chongqing (the train less than half the price of the bus...only $10aud for a 4.5 hour journey). During the couple hour wait for our train, sitting in an empty restaurant top floor, Chalne and i ranged in a sleep-dazed conversation from topics existential to the mundane, until i eventually started describing to her the principles of impermanence as conveyed through Buddhism. Then after this conservation, on the train, by chance we were seated beside a Buddhist monk, the only monk on the long and packed train. So we began chatting to the gentle practitioner on various topics including life as a monk, Tibetan culture, different schools of Buddhism, temples to visit and types of meditation. It was interesting to see that he couldn't resist buying several of each of the toys put on sale in showman-like fashion to all passengers in the carriage by the railway staff. Presumably he has plenty of cash (monks are these days given a salary by the government), quite a far cry for example from the Jain Sadhus i met in India and wrote about in my other blog..... Anyway he couldn't resist gifting us a couple of toothbrushes he bought, and the salesman (plus the whole carriage!) had a good laugh at me when i gave the toothbrush a demo run there and then ('you shouldn't do it without toothpaste!' the salesmen cried). Following this journey, discussions of Buddhism, yoga and meditation techniques became one of the main themes of mine and Chalne's relationship. Amongst these discussions, we both agreed on the transient nature of things, and we instead tried to enjoy the moment, undisturbed by the looks of disapproval as we calmed ourselves through concentration on the breath as we rode the busy public bus.
Chongqing was more than i expected. Far from the dull, industrial metropolis i had heard about, to me, it's charm was palatable and its atmosphere captivating. The natural geography of hilly streets and high density housing, commercial districts amongst concrete and pylons that lifted the city's arteries one on top of the other, plus stone-lined alleyways, street markets and old-style architecture hidden amongst the tall buildings, on a narrow peninsula flanked by 2 large rivers, it really took on the appearance of a huge multi-level maze, but one where the pleasure, not the puzzle, was in getting lost.
The center of town and main commerical district, Jiefangbei, had wide vehicle-free promenades lined with neon-lit fashion, electronics, western take way outlets and traditional Chongqing hotpot restaurants. With the local pride for spice, Chongqing hotpot is known to be even spicer than it's cousin the Sichuan hotpot, even with Sichuan's formidable reputation for fire (the Chinese saying in relation to regional cuisines goes 'Sichuan is for spicy hot'), and Chalne and i (with some trepidation) decided this was the chance to take on the spice challenge, and we climbed to the rooftop restaurant overlooking the mall. With these hotpots, you cook the food yourself in a big pot of spiced broth which sits in the centre of the table, and my first tentative taste of the soup was a warning, as a tiny drip on my little finger burned my toungue immeadiately upon contact. The hundreds of tiny red chillis in the soup broth really got me sweating and i had to gag to stop choking from the heat, while tears poured out of my eyes, but i kept eating. Quite tasty in fact. I survived the evening, but it wasn't until after i went to sleep the following night that i was hit by an explosive case of amoebic dysentry that lasted a good couple of days (requiring drastic pharmaceutical dosing to survive the 10 hour bus back from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou the following day). Not sure if it was the hotpot or the alleyway 50c noodles i ate the following night (amongst a genial crowd of local workers- the real folk) that finally did it to me but i can say im sure the fire-spice dinner had its affect.
Otherwise in Chongqing, i spent my time (oft with companion) wandering the streets, riding cable cars and climbing hills for overviews of the rivers, skyscrapers and city lights. One afternoon i took the bus to Ciqikou ancient town, a charming place overlooking the Jinjiang river of roughstone alleyways, wooden shuttered windows and white-washed, brown-lined narrow multistorey homes, that seems hardly to have changed in 500 years. Nowadays also a tourist enclave for food and handmade souvenirs, while wandering alleys here and snapping plenty pics, i chatted to Pakistani chefs plying their trade to interested local tourists and visited a serene Buddhist pagoda situated over and above the tourist shopping mayhem. Meeting friendly people on the bus there- who made sure i didn't get lost (even frantically waving directions out the window of the bus after i'd got off!), and practising Chinese with then was half the fun of the trip.
Chongqing is also famous as one of the last strongholds of the Kuomintang in their battle with the communists. They made it their capital after the fall of the Qing dynasty and many bloody battles were fought in this area, with communist memorials in the hills outside the city from where the red army based themselves and eventually overcame the nationalists in the bitter struggle, tales of siege and torture aside (these civil-war battles are now depicted daily on state television in a way that outspoken local Chinese academics recently described as propaganda and brainwashing for their one-sided promotion of the Communists)
The people in Chongqing also seemed remarkably friendly (apart from one old attendant lady in a temple who seemed to get sadistic pleasure from yelling at a foreigner with camera...), people didn't seem to stare, look at me strangely or try to rip me off, they were polite and helpful.... Quite civilized it seemed. A possible reason being coz there are much less foreigners here than in Chengdu so perhaps ppl. more inclined to show their best face when one comes along......;)
Maybe also i was looked upon more kindly too for being accompanied by a charming young Chinese girl like Chalne...
HEY- I forgot to mention in my last post- happy birthday to my dearest mother- on 19th Jan turned 50+ years young!
More dedications to my dear parents later.... this Chinese filial piety thing is infectious! Confucius has had a bit to say about that in his classic 'The Analects'- which ive recently read- rest assured i'll offer some interpretations of his teachings in the next post.....
Bye for now
cheers
callum
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